Five Cups of Tea

In slim, clear glass, cups about four inches tall we are offered tea at least five times a day here in Iraq. After meals, between meal breaks and during meetings the delicate cups with small gold spoon come out on a large tray and are distributed around. The sugar bowl comes along too and most Iraqi’s heap a couple of spoonfuls of sugar into the hot tea.

The tea distribution at meetings and when a guest in someone’s home frequently is preceded with water provided in individual sealed servings. This is a very dry climate and the need for hydration is ongoing.

Whether in the home of a simple family or an established community leader we are being greeted with graciousness, sometimes curiosity and then warmth.

We visited the home of a gardener and his wife in the Al Jerawiya neighborhood. They might be about 60 years old with five grown daughters and some grandchildren. Their home is in a “squatter’s neighborhood” which it was explained means they do not own the land on which their house sits. They built their modest home with found building materials. The walls were some type of stone and cement. The floor in one part displays lovely hexagon tiles. The patriarch is a wiry man who as we get out of our cars hastily rolls up the rugs in his main living area and moves them out to a covered area in the front of his house. (We might think of this as a patio). He does not have a generator and the electricity was off so it was too dark in his windowless living room for conversation with guests. Adjacent to the covered area in front of his house was a garden about six feet by 20 feet. On the day we were there two rose bushes had blooms and there were other blooms on the overhanging trellised vines. These looked like a smaller hibiscus.

At this visit the men were invited to gather on cushions on the floor. The four women, Deborah, Joan, Joan and I went looking for the woman of the house. We found them around to the side of the house. After adjusting “jupas” (long black dresses) they came tumbling out of back rooms to greet us. We found our way through conversation with sign language and young adult daughters who spoke very good English. Deborah had tee shirts to share and others had candy.

The mother was thoughtfully curious about us and joined in the conversation. We saw an older woman we presumed was a grandmother. She did not engage with us. The longer we were there more young girls appeared over the garden wall, out from the kitchen, came to see these visitors who didn’t dress like anyone from the area. They thanked us for stopping and waved us off through a crowd of probably 25 that had gathered outside their home during the time of our visit.

The “street” outside of this home was an expanded dirt path with lots of dusty ruts. Other than the main thoroughfares this is the usual street in Najaf. Paving residential streets is not done as far as we have seen. Even in the neighborhoods of expensive homes the area in front is likely a bumpy dirt road…just a difference.
On Friday, the first day of a two day week end we visited the home of Dr. Azar M. a dermatologist and professor. His three children, 4, 7 and 11, along with his wife Shayma welcomed us at the door. After touring his new home we were treated to a variety of sweets including Baklava like squares, cookies and chocolates. Shayma made a cake and decorated with “Najaf and Mpls---Sister Cities” in wording on the top.

His home included an elegantly furnished front reception room with hand cut mirror glass art designs on the ceiling. The main part of the house was built around a circular family room with stairs leading to a circular balcony above. The children’s rooms were decorated with Hello Kitty themes in one and “Angry Birds” in another. I taught the two older children, boys, how to place pick up sticks with a set a brought along. I can say “la” meaning no (you moved a stick so lose your turn) and “nam” meaning yes you get to pick up another. They quickly caught on and we played a couple of rounds. I left the set of sticks with them.

Azar and Shayma were very gracious asking if we couldn’t stay all afternoon. Azar is very committed to maintaining connections between his friends in Mpls. (He visited in 2011) and his community here in Najaf. He is a wonderful resource for me whenever we talk about politics, economics and education in Iraq. He has a broad perspective, sometimes hopeful and optimistic, about some other things worried.

I value his friendship and look forward to staying connected. This was the first time I had met his wife, Shayma, a high school geography teacher and English speaker as well. Hopefully they will come as a family next time to visit us in the US.